Black Canyon of the Gunnison/Mesa Verde
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April 10
Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park
After an outstanding breakfast at Main Street Restaurant with our friends we headed out of Idaho Springs, Colorado toward Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park about 4 hours away. The ride there, through Monarch Pass was an adventure in itself. These mountain pass roads around and within the Rockies and San Juan Mountains are not for the faint of heart. However, the scenery is always worth it…we think!
The scenery got less Rockies snowcappy and more desert canyony after a couple of hours on the road.
We got to Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park around 3:00 p.m.
The plan was to do the scenic road drive through the park, then stay at a motel in Montrose, Colorado about 20 minutes away and return the next day for some hiking. Unfortunately, I didn’t do my homework like I usually do. We learned just before we got there via the NPS app that the scenic road was still closed for the winter. It was to open in a couple of weeks. Well, that changes plans a bit. Luckily I had not yet booked a room in Montrose.
Rim Rock Trail
We first went to the visitors Center to speak with a ranger, as usual. She was very helpful. There were few options without being able to drive beyond the Visitors Center but there was a short path to a magnificent overlook of the canyon, and a 2-mile round trip hike along the Rim Rock Trail. The hike along the rim was first. We put our hiking shoes on in the car, grabbed some water, and hit the trailhead from the parking lot. It was an easy hike that provided spectacular views of the dramatic black, spired canyon walls overlooking the Gunnison River. Wow!
After the hike we ventured out along the short paved path behind the visitors center to the observation deck. Wow!
Telluride
Our new destination to spend the night was Telluride about 1.5 hours away. This is “shoulder” season for Telluride so most things are closed, including lodging. There were two options, one was $270/night, the other $108. The Victorian Inn for $108 was perfectly fine, including the firepit that we had all to ourselves after dinner.
Shoulder season at 8:00 p.m. also meant very few options for dinner. Walking around, we found a local hangout divey bar/restaurant called the Corner House Grill, also perfectly fine. This seemed to be where the life in town is after dark during the slow season. Small, rustic, busy, with friendly staff and decent food. Food and drink are ordered at the bar, and the food is brought to your table by the bartender.
Off to bed
April 11
Mesa Verde National Park
Walked around beautiful downtown Telluride for about 45 minutes.
Then we stopped off at adjacent Mountain Village to check out the ski area where I skied this past winter with our daughter Suzannah. Then on to Mesa Verde National Park about 2 hours away.
Mesa Verde National Park
The road leading into Mesa Verde National Park, all the way to the Visitors Center and beyond, was unusual in that though it was typically harrowing in spots with high drop-offs below as it ascends, there are actually guardrails along most of the deadly sections. Not that we’re complaining.
Cliff dwelling tours at Mesa Verde start around May, so there were no tours for us on this trip, which we knew beforehand. So, upon arrival we hit the Visitors Center and got more information on the scenic drive through the park, and on a possible hike to do afterward. The ranger was helpful as he did an overview for about 6 of us visitors, which I recorded on my phone.
So, in the car and off we went along the scenic road tour, following the park map and stopping at the various amazing overlooks, cliff dwelling viewpoints and other things.
The main attraction at this park of course are the cliff dwellings, but the scenic overlooks are just as compelling, and oh so worth the stops.
After the very cool car tour we contemplated hiking the Spruce Canyon trail that the ranger told us about, which started out from the secondary visitors center at the Tree House Museum. Considering the time of day and imminent dwindling of daylight, we could have completed it. But we really wanted the daylight for the somewhat daunting drive out of the park afterward, so we decided not to do it.
We got a nice dinner (Destination Grill) and spent the night in Cortez, Colorado, about 30 minutes out, and the closest city from the park in the direction we were heading. After dinner we walked to Denny’s for ice cream and then back to the hotel for the night.
Next: Monument Valley
