Glencoe Hiking & Glenfinnan

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Glencoe Hiking & Glenfinnan Viaduct

July 11

We got up early, had breakfast with food purchased at the grocery in Kinlochleven village, and headed to the famous Glenfinnan Viaduct to see the passing steam train which was used as Hogwart’s Express in the Harry Potter movies.  It was about an hour away and so we got there at 9:45 A.M. for the 10:45 A.M. pass of the train. We snagged a spot in the small visitor’s center lot which was then filled up just 10 minutes later.

On the other side of the road from the visitor’s center is the breathtakingly scenic Loch Shiel which was also a filming site for various Harry Potter scenes.  We went to the lake shore first since we had about an hour before the train would pass. We imagined the Harry Potter scenes.

On to the main event. We hiked about 15 minutes to claim a good viewing spot in the grassy hills overlooking the viaduct where the steam train that looks just like Hogwarts Express would pass over. There were about 150 people up in the hillside. The train came a few minutes late, and it was actually goose bump inducing (for Harry Potter fans of course). The conductor blew steam as the train passed by us all, and the people on the train waived…very, very fun!

We then drove back toward Glencoe to explore the beautiful Highland scenery and do some hiking.  On the way we stopped for lunch in the large town of Fort William which we had passed through when driving from Kinlochleven to Glenfinnan. We walked around a lively touristy area that is closed off to cars until we decided where to eat. It looks nothing like what we see in the Outlander television series.

There were several pull-offs and trailheads along A82 in Glencoe but pinpointing the trailhead parking area for Devil’s Staircase (a segment of the West Highland Way) proved challenging.  We eventually settled on a small lot off the road, assuming it was nearby.  We asked some other people about the trailhead, but they were just as unsure as we.  Turned out we had hit it right, the trailhead was across the street about 100′ down the road.

The weather on this day was the best we had gotten anytime in Scotland so we got some great scenery in as we hiked the strenuously steep climb of Devil’s Staircase and back, and then on to Glen Etive nearby.  The lime green mountains and hills were endless….magnificent.   Devil’s staircase was so arduous that Emilie took off her favorite sweater, but forgot where she put it.  Luckily we found it along our eventual descent…somebody had put it where we would surely see it.  Tragedy averted….however only temporarily since Emilie would eventually leave the sweater on the airplane in Boston when we got home.

Then we headed back the 10 miles to Kinlochleven for dinner at Bothy Bar.  It has a great view of the lake, but just OK food.  We ordered at the bar, which is also where West Highland Way hikers checked in to the overnight cabins on the site of the restaurant.

Next: Kinlochleven to Bridge of Orchy to Carlisle