Snaefellsnes Coastal Hike, Puffins, Whales

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July 16

Snaefellsnes Peninsula

Djupalonssandur Beach and Malarrif

After breakfast at Hotel Budir we shuttled 20 minutes to the head of a 4-mile coastal hike along the breathtaking Snaefellsnes Peninsula. It started at Djupalonssandur Beach, and we hiked to the Malarrif lighthouse. It rained on us for about half the hike, but the amazing beach and coastal landscape more than compensated.  The initial pathway from the shuttle vans to the beach could have been where they filmed Game of Thrones. This cool pathway, the black stone beach, thundering waves, high cliffside shoreline, unusual rock formations, and rain gave Djupalonssandur Beach a magical, mystical feel.  We had fun frolicking along the rocks, and just taking in the seemingly never disturbed natural beauty. It seemed that each Backroaders was in his/her own world taking it all in.

Then at some point our leaders herded us to the trail toward Malarrif.

The trail hugged the western point of Iceland with spectacular vistas of the North Atlantic. There were some tricky footings along the sea cliff heights, and nothing between the edge and a very long drop.  We’re pretty sure everybody fell at least once on this hike. Backroads is very good at keeping its charges alive, but they balance that with adventurous risk-taking if its hikers opt for it.

At one high shoreline vista we could see seals down below. As we descended toward sea-level, a few members of the hiking group saw an arctic fox among the black rocks. It is a rare siting according to our guides. Unfortunately, Em and I didn’t see it.  Charlie got some pics and a video of it, though!

At the excellent Malarrif Visitor Center by the lighthouse at the end of the 4-mile, wet hike, one of our Backroads leaders was waiting for us with snacks and drinks served out the back of one of the vans.  Now that’s the way to end a hike!

 

After mulling around for about 10 minutes we got in the vans and headed to Lunch at Gilbakki Cafe for award winning vegetable soup. This cozy, friendly place is only open during the summer and fall.  Our group basically occupied the upstairs dining area, which looked like the inside of a tiny house.  I’m not a soup fan, but I will say this was really amazing soup. 

Grundarfjoroir

From here we took a 30-minute shuttle to a boat in the cool little coastal town of Grundarfjoroir, north of the Snæfellsnes peninsula.

We would be embarking on a 1.5-hour puffin watch excursion. The weather was now perfect. There was no rain, and it was not too cold.  The boat we boarded was a lot like the Orca, the fishing boat from the film Jaws.

 

The boat captain and the naturalist guide were both from the U.K.  We headed out with intention of seeing puffin and the surrounding coastal landscape. The boat view of the green mountainous landscape, littered with waterfalls, was truly enchanting. The most notable natural landmark is Mount Kirkjufell.  This is a beautiful 1,500′ hill considered the most photographed mountain in Iceland…and Game of Thrones was filmed on location there.

There were puffins in the water and flying around.  The captain brought the ship into some very tight spots along a small rocky island not too far out where there were puffins hanging about (she was a real pro…we thought for the boat was going to hit the rocks).

As the boat was cruising along I noticed something large, dark, and moving in the water out of the corner of my eye.  My timing was perfect because it happened to be a humpback whale!  I very cleverly yelled, “whale”, and immediately the captain went into whale-chasing mode, and we followed it.  The whale spouted 3 times for us and showed us its tail twice. This was a bonus since we were told at the outset of the excursion that we shouldn’t expect to see any whales, just sea birds.

After about 20 minutes of chasing the whale, we headed back to land.  We got back to the Backroads vans around 4:30 PM and headed back to the Hotel Budir. Got to the hotel around 5:15.

Before dinner, the group took a short tour of the black wooden church about 5 minutes adjacent to the hotel. I showered instead.  But Em went. There was a local guide there to give the rundown on the unique church.

It was the final night celebration with the Backroads group tonight.  We enjoyed drinks together and then a truly great dinner in a private dining room overlooking the water. A civilized way to end a very busy day.

 

Off to bed. We all slept very well!

Next: Horseback Ride & Back to Reykjavik