To Granada, The Alhambra
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Malaga to Granada
October 14
We checked out of the Hotel Larios in Malaga and started the 1-mile walk to the train station for our 3:30 p.m. transfer to Granada. Along the way we stopped to do our laundry at a laundromat. We got some coffee, awesome Spain OJ (zumo de naranja), and some tasty pastry at a very small cafe called Kawama just around the corner from the laundromat while waiting for the laundry.
After folding and repacking our newly cleaned clothes, on to the train station. The Malaga train station is a city hub for activity. There are lots of upscale stores, bars, and cafes. We killed time before our train with some beers at one of those taverns.
We got some nice scenery on the train to Granada. Another beautiful day.
Arriving in Granada around 5:30 p.m. we walked about a mile to the Airbnb we rented with our friends Chris and Deb from NYC. We would be spending the next 6 nights with them in Granada and Seville. Chris gets the credit for finding the Airbnbs. This Airbnb was well located downtown in the Centro neighborhood. Basically in the center of the old city, downtown. This meant, of course navigating the labyrinthine streets and stone pathways of Granada via Apple Maps.
After a 20-minute walk, at about 6:00 p.m. we arrived at the Airbnb. Our friends had already arrived there. Chris greeted us at the entry.
We enjoyed a drink with them on the rooftop terrace of the Airbnb, with a view of the Alhambra. The rooftop was the best thing about this Airbnb.
We all headed out to dinner and to get acquainted with the nearby sights of Granada. We found some pretty good Italian food (pizza and eggplant parm) with outdoor seating nearby at La Piccola Carmela. After dinner, at around 9:00 p.m. we walked around the area checking out some stores and some amazing architecture.
When Em and I got into bed around 11:00 p.m. we noticed that we actually had a view of the Alhambra through a high window above our bed…pretty cool.
The Alhambra
October 15
We had 11:00 a.m. entry tickets for the Alhambra (purchased weeks in advance). This allowed us all to sleep in this morning. After breakfast at the Airbnb, it was off to the Alhambra, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Also, the most visited landmark in all of Spain. It’s a 26-acre palace and fortress complex whose construction began in the 13th century. It is one of the most famous monuments of Islamic architecture, and one of the best-preserved palaces of the historic Islamic world, It also contains some amazing displays of Spanish Renaissance architecture.
It was here, by the way, where we concluded that all online audio guides to cathedrals, fortresses, palaces, etc. in Spain are pretty much useless. Issues include: impossible to download, confusing to follow, constant re-setting to page 1, and user idiocy. We found it easier to have a map, read placards, and listen in on group tour guides, or just remain clueless on the history or meaning of the amazing wood ceiling, garden, or room we are looking at.
Though our tix for the Alhambra were for 11:00, we learned that there are just three sections of the complex that require entry tickets: the Alcazaba fortress, the Nasrid Palaces, and the Generalife gardens. The rest can be visited anytime without a ticket or admission fee. Only the Nasrid Palaces had a timed entry restriction. It took us about 10 minutes to walk to the perimeter walkway to get into the Alhambra. This walkway and entrance were an attraction themselves, and it was another 5 minute, steep walk to the entrance to the Alhambra.
The Puerta de la Justicia (Gate of Justice) entrance into the Alhambra was the closest entrance for us from the Airbnb. Fortunately is also the entrance that is usually the least crowded
Alcazaba of the Alhambra
Arriving at about 10:30, there was no line at this entrance which spit us out right near the Alcazaba fortress. So, we explored the Alcazaba first, before going to the Nasrid Palaces, which has strict timed entry requirements, ours was for 11:00. Passports were also required. When I purchased the tix online way in advance, passport numbers for all visitors were required. Upon entry, they scan the passports, not the tickets.
Doing the Alcazaba early was a good thing, as the crowds were not bad at all first thing after opening. We got some tremendous views of Granada from the fortress walls.
Nasrid Palaces
Without crowds we actually completed our tour of the Alcazaba in less than 30 minutes. This was perfect timing for our 11:00 timed entry into the Nasrid Palaces. The palaces are really the main attraction here, and the most unique thing about the Alhambra. They are truly remarkable architectural masterpieces. But it was very crowded.
Generalife
We meandered our way from the Nasrid Palaces to get some lunch at the Parador Hotel cafe, embedded within the grounds. Service was quite slow and inattentive, and my burger was way undercooked, but it was an enjoyable respite. After lunch we explored the Generalife section, which is the summer palace for the kings of Granada. There are gorgeous courtyards and patios surrounded by extensive gardens. It is the oldest Hispanic-Muslim garden in all of Europe.
The last thing we explored was the Charles V Palace within the Alhambra. There really wasn’t much to this but the atrium inside was like being inside the Roman Colosseum. To gain a perspective of the palace, I have borrowed an overhead drone pic from the internet. The second pic is of Em on one of the interior balconies….circled in red.
The Alhambra did not disappoint. It is a true marvel of history and architecture. It is such a vast complex of building and gardens that we spent almost 5 hours there, though that did include the slow but enjoyable 1-hour lunch at the Parador hotel on the grounds.
Unfortunately, there were three things we were unable to see at the Alhambra because they closed mid-afternoon, and we were unaware of that. These were the Mosque Baths of the Alhambra, the St. Mary of Alhambra church, and the Alhambra Museum. Didn’t even think about them closing at 2:30 p.m. However, we did return to see these things (see here).
Mirador San Nicolas
After the tour of the Alhambra, we stopped off at a nearby grocery for supplies, and then regrouped at the Airbnb for about 2 hours. At around 7:00 PM it was off to the popular Mirador San Nicolas (uphill all the way) for a popular sunset viewpoint of Alhambra, and hopefully some dinner. It was a cloudy evening so sunset was not so great but there were still some great sunset colors cast upon the Alhambra and the city. There were a lot of people at this viewpoint just hanging out and enjoying the beautiful weather and view.
There was also El Balcon de San Nicolas restaurant on the street just below the viewpoint at San Nicolas where we situated ourselves for food, drink, and a perfect view. The tapas were very good, the service was adequate, but hey, the view was fantastic…and we got a table!
The walk back down after dinner was much easier than the walk up to the mirador (viewpoint), but just right for walking off dinner. Even just walking off dinner Deb walked past a very cool caste/fortress/building…whatever…Granada is speckled all around with amazing architecture.
Back at the Airbnb we chilled on the rooftop, then off to bed.
