Monteverde: Cloud Forest

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Monteverde

Driving to Monteverde

February 16

On our second and final morning at El Faro Beach Hotel, we were greeted by capuchin monkeys on our balcony as we pulled back the curtains—an unforgettable send-off.

After breakfast and one last look out over the ocean, we packed up and began the roughly four-hour drive to Monteverde. Goodbye Costa Rica coast and hello Costa Rica forest!

JACO Sign

Heading back along Route 34, we made a stop at the iconic Jaco Sign for the obligatory photos. Sue, Em, and I got out and ran across the busy road for pics…Ann was much smarter and stayed safely with the car…along with a security officer standing there in the pull-off. He really didn’t do anything, so we assumed his job was to call the ambulance if somebody got hit.

Not long after, we couldn’t resist pulling in again at Viking Danish Bakery—a spot we’d visited earlier on our way to Manuel Antonio. This time, beyond the pastries, we sat down for lunch at the adjacent restaurant  Steven Lisa’s. The food and service were excellent, making it feel like a surprisingly upscale stop along the roadside.

While traffic wasn’t nearly as intense as our earlier drive from the San José area to Manuel Antonio, the winding, narrow, and hilly mountain roads to Monteverde were challenging. Thankfully we had the calming influence of cousins Ann and Sue in the back.

As we climbed higher toward Monteverde, the change in elevation became unmistakable—not just in the cooler air, but in the strong winds that picked up noticeably as we approached the cloud forest region.

We arrived at the main downtown area of Monteverde around 4:00 PM. This is a busy town with a very narrow and congested road going through it. Seems like most non-highway roads in Costa Rica are narrow and winding, and when in a town…congested. Monteverde is popular with tourists but that does not mean it has a high-brow tourist feel…activity seems dominated by locals, but with lots of tourists buzzing around the non-fancy shops, eateries, and adventure tour companies. Our home for the next three nights, the cozy, comfortable Mitzli Lodge and Adventure was just beyond the center of town. The motel sits halfway up such an insanely steep road that our car barely made it…seriously!

Upon check-in we received a local orientation from the friendly motel front desk and then headed out on foot around 5:00 PM to find food and maybe catch sunset. We didn’t want to drive because we thought the car deserved a break! We never felt bad for a rental car before.

We eventually found the wonderful Belmar Tap Room and Beer Garden on the grounds of the swanky Hotel Belmar. This is a quaint, boutique brewery/restaurant among the treetops, and overlooks a pond. We intended on going to the hotel’s main restaurant but we came across this first and decided it was perfect…it also meant one less hill to walk up. Dinner, service, and the treetop patio ambiance was great.

Our server (the only staff we saw the whole time) called a taxi for us to get back to the lodge. We hung out in the common area for a bit before heading to bed. We could hear the wind howling…it seemed as though it got much windier at night in Monteverde.

Monteverde Cloud Forest

February 17

Breakfast at Mitzli Lodge is just great. There are only maybe 8 rooms in this place, and breakfast orders are made the night before with the front desk. A breakfast time is requested, and then it is prepared fresh for that time upon arrival into the common room, which also serves as the “dining” room. There was never other people eating at the same time as us, so we had the room to ourselves each morning…with a delicious fresh breakfast.

After breakfast we got in the car and drove about 15 minutes to the Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve for an 11:00 AM guided tour.   After parking the car and checking in at the ticket center we waited about 10 minutes for a shuttle to take us to the Reserve. That shuttle took about 10 minutes so we were wise to get to the parking area when we did, around 10:30.

Though we purchased tickets for a guided hike along the Continental Divide trail in the reserve, our guide Michael took us along the shorter Heart of the Forest trail. He insisted it was a better choice because it was easier and we would see everything on this trail that we came to see, including the hanging bridge and the continental divide. We’re still not sure what was behind that but it was not a private tour so we went along. We assume he thought we were too old for the longer trail. I was very tempted to challenge him to a race to the end of the trail.

Before we even set out on the trail, just as we entered the path, we were entertained by several coatis romping around the trees and the brush.

The guided hike took about two and a half hours.  Our guide wasn’t overly personable but he was enthusiastic and knowledgeable. He pointed out lots of wildlife and flora, and brought along a scope and tripod for viewing assistance as needed.

In addition to the cloud forest itself, a highlight of the preserve is a very cool hanging bridge that towers 100′ above the forest floor.

Along the trail, we spotted a sloth high up in a tree—too far away for a decent photo, but still a great sighting (and there would be many more later). We also saw several lizards along the way. We took a break at the turnaround point, which sat atop an overlook straddling both the Caribbean and Pacific sides of Costa Rica—the continental divide.

One of the eeriest moments came when our guide pointed out a tarantula nestled in a hole within the wall of dirt and vegetation along the trail. After that, none of us leaned against anything for the rest of the trip!

The highlight of the hike came near the end, when we were incredibly lucky to spot both a male and a female quetzal—the pride of Monteverde. Our guide was just as excited as we were. These birds are truly magnificent, with vibrant colors and long, flowing tail feathers. Watching them take flight from their perch was spectacular. The tour ended on that high note, and we felt fortunate to have witnessed it.

After the hike, we gathered on a patio near the gift shop, where several hummingbird feeders attracted a lively crowd of birds putting on an impressive show.

From there, we shuttled back to the car and headed back toward town, though not before encountering some cows on the road.

Near our motel, we stopped for a late lunch at the upscale yet casual Thomas and Thiago. The food was excellent, and the service was great. They went out of their way to open a bottle of wine they usually only sell by the bottle just so I could have a glass of the wine that I wanted.

Afterward, we drove into town to wander through the shops. Monteverde’s downtown is compact, with narrow, somewhat disjointed walkways along a busy street.

The atmosphere is lively, with a mix of tourist and local offerings. Parking required a bit of guesswork—we’re still not sure if our spot was legal, but the car fit, so we went with it.

We returned to our Mitzli lodge in time to watch the colorful sunset from the common room.

Then we headed out for a 7:30 dinner across the street at El Sapo Restaurant and Bar, part of the posh Senda Hotel. It was the most high-end dining experience we had in Costa Rica. The meal was excellent—my ribs were uniquely prepared and delicious, and the wine list was surprisingly solid for the region.

After our late dinner we walked back to the lodge, hung out in the common room, then off to bed.

Next: Selvatura Park & Don Juan Coffee & Chocolate Tour