Lisbon – Two Days
Previous: Sintra Next: Obidos and Nazare
Lisbon in April
April 12
Praça do Comércio
After a hotel breakfast, we hauled our bags to the station and caught the 45-minute train to Lisbon’s Rossio station.
From there, we faced a 15-minute walk to our hotel that felt more like a mountain expedition. Steep streets, endless stairs, and 80-degree heat—all unexpected! The hills of Portugal were not on our radar.
Thankfully, our wonderful LR Guesthouse host made up for it with a warm welcome, a tour of the charming guesthouse, and plenty of helpful recommendations. We dropped our bags and headed out to explore while waiting for check-in.
We strolled down Rua Augusta, Lisbon’s main pedestrian shopping street to Praça do Comércio, the enormous waterfront public square at the end. We paid €9 to climb the Rua Augusta Arch. The arch commemorates Lisbon’s rebirth after the devastating earthquake of 1755. From the top, we enjoyed fantastic views of the grand square and the Tagus River. There were very few others up there!
I scored a Lisbon ball cap from a Rua Augusta street “vendor” displaying his goods on a blanket. Though I told him I’d be back later to buy it he said he’d unlikely be there later…referring to the fact that he and his colleagues didn’t exactly have a license to set up shop in the street. I guess I’ll buy it now!
Lisbon Cathedral
Next came Lisbon Cathedral, one of the city’s oldest churches. But first, a delicious detour for ginginha—a local cherry liqueur served in an edible chocolate cup. These little treats are a delicious taste of Portuguese culture! The serving of ginginha in a chocolate cup is associated with Obidos, Portugal, but we couldn’t wait to get to Obidos so we had them here!
On to Lisbon Cathedral in the Alfama neighborhood of Lisbon. This is the oldest district in Lisbon due to it being the only neighborhood left standing after the 1755 earthquake.
We grabbed a tasty outdoor lunch at Brunch and Bites in the Alfama neighborhood.
Then we wandered through Alfama’s maze of narrow streets and scenic viewpoints.
Then on to São Jorge Castle. This highest hilltop landmark has centuries of history behind its walls and offers panoramic views over Lisbon’s terracotta rooftops and the Tagus river.
Our walk back towards the guesthouse brought us to Rossio Square, one of the most popular public squares in Lisbon, once used for bullfights and executions. Its black and white wavy mosaic pavement is very cool.
By then, we’d earned a break, so we settled in at The Portuguese Wine Bar for port and cheese. Lisbon has bars and cafes tucked into landings along its many, many staircases.
We finally returned to the guesthouse around 8:00 p.m.
Eventually…Off to Bed
April 13
Belem Tower
Breakfast at LR Guesthouse was truly awesome. Properly fueled, we caught an Uber to Belém Tower—and WOW! An absolute highlight of the trip so far.
This isn’t just a pretty tower beside the water. Built in the 1500’s, Belém Tower originally helped defend the entrance to Lisbon’s harbor during Portugal’s Age of Discoveries, when Portuguese explorers were opening new maritime trade routes. Its ornate stonework reflects the Manueline style, named after King Manuel I. It’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of Portugal’s most recognizable landmarks. No wonder it made such an impression! We purchased our timed entry tickets ahead of time via GetYourGuide.
Monument to the Discoveries
We walked along the waterfront from Belem Tower to the towering Monument to the Discoveries, about 10 minutes away. Shaped like a giant stone ship, this monument celebrates Portugal’s explorers, like Ferdinand Magellan.
We took the elevator instead of tackling all 267 steps and enjoyed spectacular views of Lisbon and the ocean. For €20 total, the elevator fee was money well spent!
Next, we attempted to check out the Jerónimos Monastery and its Santa Maria Church. The monastery, commissioned in the early 1500’s, is another UNESCO World Heritage Site.
However, the very long line for the monastery was roasting in the hot sun, so we made a strategic detour to Pastéis de Belém for their famous custard tarts. Excellent decision! These pastries have been made here since 1837, using a closely guarded recipe said to have originated with monks from the nearby monastery. A sweet tradition nearly 200 years in the making—and we were more than happy to participate!
Afterward, we returned to find a much shorter line for the free Santa Maria Church. A mere 10-minute wait led to an impressive 20-minute visit of this stunning 16th century church. Absolutely worth it!
With the monastery still facing an hour-long queue, we admired a nearby fountain, snapped a few photos, and Ubered back downtown.
A quick recharge at the guesthouse—nap and phone charging included—prepared us for round two.
Lisbon’s Neighborhood Viewpoints
We explored Time Out Market (a food hall on steroids), and the Bairro Alto neighborhood, known for its lively nightlife scene. Then we headed to Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara for more incredible views. Unfortunately, a nearby dance party was blasting what someone apparently considered music, so we wandered off in search of something quieter.
All the while just tooling around we really got some great street scenes of the neighborhood.
Enter Restaurante Figaldo! We enjoyed excellent oxtail stew (a first for both of us), a wonderfully fresh salad, and almond cake for dessert. The gracious owner spent time conversing with us as the lone server handled the wait duties.
The evening only got better. Along the Santa Catarina viewpoint we stumbled upon Noobai rooftop cafe, boasting fantastic views of the Tagus River and bridge, and luckily snagged two outdoor seats despite the crowd. Bartender Jorge kept us entertained with great conversation.
Before settling in at Noobai, we caught a gorgeous sunset at the Adamastor overlook in Santa Catarina, surrounded by hundreds of people enjoying the warm evening, ocean views, and festive atmosphere.
After a couple of drinks, we wandered toward home, stopping for about 20 minutes at lively Camões Square before making the final five-minute walk to our guesthouse.
Off to Bed
Next: Obidos & Nazare
